The Tangy Tango: Chinese-Italian Fusion in Kolkata’s Tangra
There’s something ineffably magnetic about Kolkata’s Tangra neighborhood, especially for those who adore the kick of spicy, tangy, and savory Chinese food adapted to Indian tastes. But the latest culinary sensation is a dish that seamlessly blends two of the world’s most beloved cuisines: Chinese noodles and Italian pasta.
A Nod to History
To understand how this fusion came into being, it’s essential to know Tangra’s rich history. The area is home to the Hakka Chinese community, who migrated to India during pre-Independent times. Initially renowned for their leather tanneries, these industrious people soon delved into the food business. The Hakka cuisine they brought with them evolved into what we know today as Kolkata Chinese, a fascinating blend of Chinese recipes tailored to Indian palates with a mix of chili, garlic, and coriander.
The Love Child: Tangra’s Egg Noodles
The highlight of this culinary amalgamation is a dish popularly known as ‘egg noodles.’ This dish is like a magical harmony of chow mein and spaghetti carbonara. Picture this: egg noodles coated in a rich, creamy sauce made with beaten eggs, creating a velvety texture reminiscent of carbonara, but with an exotic flair.
“This simple noodle dish with a beaten egg to make an emulsion-like unctuous sauce is what I remember first seeing and loving when I landed in Kolkata in the early 2000s,” says Shaun Kenworthy, a British expat chef who now resides in Kolkata. “It’s a culinary chimera with Chinese wine, sesame oil, and a load of chopped spring onions. Instead of bacon, the dish uses Tangra’s own sweet-and-smoky Chinese lap cheung sausage.”
A Homage to Tradition
The magic doesn’t stop at egg noodles. Several chefs, food festivals, and restaurants across India have been paying homage to Tangra with innovative takes on classic dishes. Chef Vicky Ratnani, a notable figure in Mumbai’s culinary scene, showcases Tangra-style chili chicken. “My version skips the gloppy corn starch sauce and opts for a dry, spicy mix of dark soy and chunky cut onions, capsicum, and chillies,” he explains.
Experiments in Fusion
Chef Abhijith Sunil Kumar at Cirqa restaurant in Mumbai is also a part of this culinary evolution. His menu features the Tangra Street jhol chicken noodle soup, a dish inspired by the fried soupy noodles you find in Tangra. The soup incorporates a rich chicken broth with chicken bones, vegetables, and steamed wontons, offering a flavor that harkens back to Tangra’s iconic chimney soup.
Pop-Ups and Dining Experiences
Kolkata-based chef Katherine Lim, alongside the dining experiences company Gormei HK, has been busy hosting Tangra-inspired pop-ups. Their latest venture, ‘Noodles & Beyond—A redefined Hakka culinary experience,’ was held at the Conrad Bengaluru Hotel’s Mikusu restaurant. Katherine aims to show that Hakka cuisine extends beyond noodles. Her menu includes lesser-known dishes such as yuxiang eggplant, rice cakes in sweet soy sauce, and steamed whole fish using local ingredients.
Keeping the Legacy Alive
Even as modern innovation pushes boundaries, some chefs remain committed to preserving traditional Tangra flavors. Yin Shung Jonathan from Tangra’s iconic Kafulok restaurant is one such torchbearer. With his capsule collection of Tangra-style dishes at Mumbai’s Mool restaurant, including the ever-popular chili chicken and Hakka noodles, he aims to keep the culinary heritage alive despite demographic changes in the community.
A Flavor Worth Preserving
The streets of Tangra may no longer bustle with the activity they once did, but the food continues to be a testament to the community that introduced these flavors to India. Whether it’s traditional dishes or modern fusions, the culinary magic of Tangra remains tantalizingly palpable.
Embrace the flavors and celebrate the legacy of Tangra, because every bite tells a story of adaptation, innovation, and a fusion of cultures.
For more delicious insights into unique food cultures, follow Raul Dias, a Mumbai-based food and travel writer.
Also read: Hitting the right flavor notes with Tangra food
Priyanka 
Mehek